MORNING COFFEE WITH NADEEN PICKARD
Fall has arrived cloaked in gold, red, bronze and colors in between. All around us farmers are hastily bringing in the last of the summer crops and preparing the fields for the spring planting. It's a busy time for man and beast as each in its own way prepares for the coming winter months.
Fall most of all reminds me of my dad who passed away at Christmas nearly five years ago. He was an avid gardener with a passion for vegetables, especially potatoes. In late winter, the seed catalogues would arrive, and hours were spent pouring over the new introductions of potatoes. Each spring, a new variety or two would join the others in straight rows. My mother's comments that enough was enough went unheeded. I can remember sitting at the kitchen table with dad, listening patiently to the names and growth habits of potatoes for hours. Mom would enter the kitchen and he'd immediately say "I'm cutting back on the potatoes this year". A wink in my direction forewarned me of the new row that would join the others.
Being a military man, his rows were neat and orderly. Each year he declared a personal war on the pests that dared invade his territory.
Waging war with chemicals, old home remedies and hand picking kept him in the garden from morning until night on guard duty. Weeds were not allowed to do more than poke their heads up before being assigned to the garbage pile. The daily battles were often detailed in a phone call.
Somehow my dad thought I shared his passion for potatoes in spite of the fact I never gave them room in my own garden, opting instead for flowers.
Summer progressed and fall crept up. The potato harvest would begin along with the other late season vegetables. From out of nowhere, huge burlap bags would appear. It was a sight that in my early childhood signaled my doomed existence in the garden. It was my job to clean and bag the potatoes.
Ugh!
As an adult, I avoided my parents' house in the fall like the plague. It never ended with the harvest of the potatoes for that was only the beginning.
Having enough potatoes to feed a small country, my dad mounted what was to become "The Great Potato Give Away". No one was safe or left out as large over-filled burlap bags of "spuds" made their way into homes.
A generous man, he saw no reason why you couldn't use three 40 pound bags to start you off. A couple of weeks after delivery, he would phone to see if any more were needed. Negotiating the workroom in my parents' basement was an athletic accomplishment worthy of an Olympic sport.
As winter wore on and the potatoes lost their "freshness," my dad would patiently sort them out, re-bagging them again. Phone calls increased in frequency as his famous "how are you doing for spuds" question was a replacement for hello.
Finally, when they could no longer be announced as fit for human consumption I would get another phone call. It was time to load the bags and head off to his friend who kept a few pigs. Once there, the bags would be emptied into a holding area.
As all this was taking place, the first of the seed catalogues were already on the way to our house.
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FEATURE
ARTICLE EXCLUSIVE:
Super Simple Hibiscus For Beginners
(by Richard Johnson)
This is a brief article designed to aid beginners in planting and caring for their first tropical hibiscus; however, it contains some basics, which might be of interest to more experienced growers. The object, as the title implies, is to describe the simplest possible formula for growing hibiscus. Following this recipe type approach should provide great results, increase confidence and launch one on their way to discovering the world of the experience hibiscus enthusiast.
Pot: Assuming you have just purchased your first hibiscus, repotting is only necessary a short time after one sees roots growing out of the drainage holes. When repotting is necessary, select a pot one or two sizes larger than the existing root ball. The pot should have abundant drainage holes, and side slot drainage holes are ideal, as they tend to plug up less than bottom holes. If in doubt, drill additional drainage holes in the pot, assuming one has selected a plastic pot.
Potting Mix: Drainage is the important principle here, and the simplest means of obtaining it is to use any brand of "hanging basket potting mix".
Planting: Simply fill the pot with mix surrounding the root ball in such a fashion that the plant remains at the same soil level in the new pot at it was in the old one, and that the new soil level is about 1" (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. If you have a grafted variety, the graft scar should be about the same distance or more above the soil surface. The potting mix should be tamped down with the hands around the root ball and the pot tapped lightly against the ground to firm the soil around the root ball. As this mix has "designed in" good drainage, it is not necessary to place coarse material in the bottom of the pot. The plant should now be watered and placed in a shadier than normal position for a few days.
Watering: the potting mix should be kept moist but not soggy. The easiest method of determining when it is time to water is to push your finger an inch (2.5 cm) into the soil. If it feels dry, it is time to water. Be careful not to let hibiscus get so dry that leaf wilt is observed.
Fertilizing: If the potting mix contains a slow release fertilizer, no additional fertilizer is need for several months (read the label), except for perhaps an application of fish emulsion, algae extract, or something similar, which is optional. After several months, or immediately if the potting mix purchased lacks fertilizer, apply Osmocote with minors (minors are supplementary elements beneficial to the growth of plants, particularly those grown in pots). There are several formulas, for example 17/6/10 or 15/6/12 - the important factor being a low middle number. These are long duration slow release fertilizers, which makes this a once or twice a year task. If you live in a colder area, time fertilizing so that the product is nearing depletion as cold weather approaches. This will limit new growth that is more sensitive to near freezing temperatures. In areas with year round growing conditions, fertilizing should continue without interruption as per the instructions for that particular formula; however, in very warm climates one can fertilize a month or so earlier than indicated since these fertilizers dissipate sooner under such warm conditions.
Insects: As a precautionary measure, apply Disistan, Marithon or Merit in the prescribed dosages. These are granular systemic insecticides effective against the vast majority of insect problems, which are again long duration - 2 or 3 months. For carefree growing this is an import step in maintaining healthy plants, which in turn produce unblemished flowers.
Exposition: Most hibiscus enjoy at least a half day of sunshine, some more and some less, and many will support full sun. Take a look at our Hibiscus Cultivar Archive to find information on the growing conditions for specific varieties. If you have begun this adventure in early spring, you will be treated to a full summer of some spectacular flowers.
Over Wintering: If your hibiscus were inexpensive you may simply leave them outside. If they survive winter fine, and if not consider them as annuals which you can replace next spring. However, if you have chosen one of the more exotic grafted varieties, you may wish to maximize their winter survival. In this case, where there is a risk of temperatures approaching freezing, the pot should be brought indoors for the duration of the cold spell. If that spell is of considerable duration, they should be kept near a lighted window and when placed outside again should be slowly acclimated to outdoor conditions by first placing them in mostly shade and every several days moving them to a position where they can receive progressively more sun.
Happy growing, and if you want to know more, look for the continuation in this series, "Super Simple Hibiscus - For Intermediate Growers".
GRAFTING
NOTES FROM AROUND THE WORLD
Marcos Capilini (Brazil):I have used the plastic bag method for propagating from
cuttings. This way I have realized that the cutting won't get so stressed, as
it will (can) keep almost all its leaves. The trick is to keep relative humidity
near 100% to prevent transpiration, since there's no root system to sustain the
sap flow. I use the plastic bag even for hibiscus cuttings I root in water only.
When there's plenty of roots, I move the new plant to a pot with conventional
soil mix and keep the bag on for yet another week or so, gradually opening the
bag after a few days so the plant gets accustomed with the dryer atmosphere outside.
I don't use fungicides, and this seems to present no problem for my grafts, since
the 'in-bag' period is usually short enough (have never got any fungus on the
few grafts I've made). Cuttings are a different story, however, and I'd constantly
keep an eye for fungus, especially when rooting in soil. I have never had fungus
related problems with water rooting, but I do change the water every now and then,
or whenever the water gets turbid, which is an indication of bacteria activity
and possibly rotting material. I also remove any leaves, which may get in contact
with the water. It would be interesting to hear from other people about which
cvs would root in water, and whether this method would have any advantage over
traditional soil rooting. Only thing I know is that not every variety would do
well in water, and I once had a cutting in water for over three months without
any sign of roots. Others may shoot roots in a couple of weeks.
Bob Rivers-Smith (New Zealand):Marcos, this is the system I use. The cuttings are dipped in a rooting hormone, placed in small pot filled with sand, then put in trays filled with 1/2 inch of water which are in turn placed in a mini glasshouse. This system is great for grafting. By starting the rootstock in sand until a callus forms and then removing the cutting, making a side graft and then returning it to the pot and the glass house saves covering each individual pot. My mini glasshouse is against a sheltered concrete wall, which receives sun for most of the day. The wall retains heat for a long period into the night.
Allan Little (Australia):In reference to using plastic bags on grafts, I used to use plastic bags on all my grafts, but now only bag the tip grafts with half leaves left on scion. My other grafts do not get bagged but I do have a hothouse, which is quite humid. As I am getting around 90% success rate I will stick to this method. While on the subject of grafting, some cultivars can be more difficult than others. With these 'hard to graft' cultivars, I use a method which was passed on to me by Greg Lindsay a few years back. About 7-10 days before grafting, pinch or prune the tip of the branch you are going to use for your scion wood. This pinching of the tip stimulates the plant hormones and promotes good sap flow and a higher % of successful grafts will be obtained.
Richard Johnson (Tahiti):The plastic sack does seem a very useful technique and simple as it is, it seems timing is very important, i.e., knowing just how long to keep it in place and how to gradually acclimate the plant to ambient conditions. I had a conversation earlier today with a friend of JFG's visiting Tahiti, Mr. Jean-Marie Collardot, and he modifies the technique ever so slightly by piercing holes in the sac progressively to acclimate the growing scion as it develops. However, another hibiscus friend here in Tahiti, Tolo Pambrin, has been grafting wood I give him and recently wood I received from France and he uses the classic graft, tape and wax without plastic bags (often in full sun) and gets nearly 100% takes. It looks like multiple grafts of everything from France are already growing.
J.F.G. (France):After years of experience in rooting, I can tell you the use of water as a rooting structure is not the easiest and safest method. Most of the common cvs will root easily. You will have more difficulties with the complex hybrids. I use the water rooting system to have soiless cuttings for hydroculture purposes. First, all the material, glass, plastic needs to be well sterilized. The water temperature must be constant. I have had the best results at 25°C. Water must be removed each 15-20 days, possibly to add a bit of hormone. Foliage must be enclosed in plastic. I open it every ten days and after eventual cleaning I spray with benlate. Soft woods are easier to root than woody woods. This with only water. I have better results with use of tiny clay or lava. The methodology is the same. The difference is the water level - less water in the glass or plastic bottle and no need to change the water. I add around one centimeter of fresh water every ten days. What I have observed with the water level difference is that frequently with only water, the cut part of the cutting is safe and at the water level the wood tissue begins to rot. When one wood begins to rot, frequently all the cuttings died very fast. This point is not the same with clay or lava where the situation is like with torf. I conclude that bacteria in water spread out very fast. Oasis cube with less water also gives excellent results. I do not use this often because I have difficulties to buy this material. With torf in Europe, we have so much difference in quality we have to take care in choosing which one is the best to use. The best are torfs from Finland - "Finn peat". To conclude:many mediums are available to root hibiscus. The results will increase or decrease with the wood quality. The influences of temperature and light are essential, and the covering with plastic or the use of a fog system is recommended. Last point:fresh cut cuttings laid in a fridge at +5 or 6°C during 24 to 48 hours seems to help.
Voilà!
All my experiences!
A
LOOK AT HIBISCUS STORCKII
(By
Bob Rivers-Smith)
Hibiscus Storckii was endemic to Fiji, was found by Dr.Berthold Seemann on the Fijian Island of Taveuni, and was described by him as a low-growing shrub with a light pink flower in his "Flora Vitiensis," published in 1865. He named it after his assistant Jacob Storck.
Ross Gast made a trip to Fiji to locate this species but despite an extensive search it was concluded that it was lost to cultivation.
Both Dick Phillips and Ken Perks also searched for it in vain Dick Phillips presented a paper to the second International Australian Hibiscus Society's Convention on Hibiscus Storckii in which he said:
"These notes attempt to get together some of the threads which we might follow an attempt to discover what Seemann was looking at when he named Hibiscus Storckii, attempt to trace its possible movement away from Fiji, attempt to locate a plant which, with some degree of confidence we can say that`this is what Seemann saw."
It is also interesting in the light of the current discussion that at one stage Ross Gast thought that Hibiscus denisonii and Hibiscus storckii were one and the same because the Hibiscus denisonii that he viewed at Kew gardens was a delicate pink.
In the light of another discussion about this, it would be interesting to discover how H.storckii found its way to Lyon as noted elsewhere.
I know
that the descendants of Jason Storck still in horticultural pursuits in Fiji would
love to know the answer - and so would I.
SECRETARY’S
REPORT
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2000
The month of October was a busy one for your BOD members. The Bylaws, having been discussed at great length, were finalized and presented in draft form to the general membership for comments and suggestions. The response was good and thanks to the input from our members we were able to bring the Bylaws back to the drawing board and fine-tune them.
October also saw the first IHS Photo Competition poll. Members from all over the world submitted photos in the different categories and the results were as follows:
Best
Single - Madonna
Best Double - Copper Moon
Best Multiple (Single) -
Mango Madness
Best Multiple (Double) - Red Snapper
Best Floral Art -
Vase Display
Best Computer Art - Solarization
Best Flowering Bush -
High Voltage
Best Garden - Terrace With Palm
Best People and Hibiscus
- Lady and Lord's Prayer
The overall winner and recipient of a Tahitian Black Pearl was Best Single - Madonna submitted by Damon Veach. Congratulations, Damon.
The
beginning of November had us hard at work once again on the Bylaws. After reviewing
and discussing each suggestion offered by the members, a final copy was submitted
to the general membership for their approval. The official Bylaws were accepted
on November 30, 2000. Anyone wishing to review the Bylaws may do so at the IHS
web site, which can be found at:
Special thanks to our members who took the time to review the Bylaws and offer their suggestions and comments.
The BOD also discussed the need for an Assistant Web Master. Dick Johnson, our current Web Master, has the responsibility of maintaining the web site and updating it on a regular basis along with his tasks of President of the IHS and the duties on the mail list. It was decided that Nadeen Pickard would assist him.
The BOD
is also pleased to announce we have our first Members At Large (MAL). The Societe
Quebecoise des Hibiscus (Quebec Hibiscus Society) in Canada with nearly sixty
members have voted unanimously to affiliate with the IHS. This is a newly formed
society with Francois Pare as President and founder. We welcome the SQH and look
forward to a greater learning experience together.
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EUROPEAN PAGES:
Hybridizing In France:
(by
J.F. Giraud)
Specialized growers in Hibiscus rosa-sinensis are not numerous in France. In the last ten years, at least eight to ten nurseries have developed the production with a yearly production from 30,000 to 120,000 pot plants. Most of the cultivars are common on the European market, extensively developed by Danish and Dutch Growers.
Recently at the IHS mail-list, we spoke about a new French hybridizer and selector, Mr Jean-Marie Collardot. We invite you to a brief visit to his nursery, which is situated near Dijon in the well-known region of Burgundy, where most of the inhabitants specialize in wine plantage and fine wine production.
Mr. Collardot began the hibiscus production around fifteen years ago and for the past six years with hybridizing. After four years of selection, he has selected interesting cultivars, which are reacting to the high particularities of the European markets.
We can note these particularities in selecting cultivars, which are propagated exclusively by cuttings having a fast growth rate and with natural branching and large foliage. Well-shaped and compact bushes and early floriferous bloomers with nice overlapped and good facing flowers of fine colors are mostly well appreciated at market places. The largest sales part of the market is included between April and end of June. The sale period finishes at the beginning of October. Comparatively with the northern growers, the plant size is bigger in France. Big plants in 15 cm pots and trunk plants are appreciated by the consumers.
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Looking at his new selections |
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is used as decorative plants inside in the winter period and outside from May to October. With the exception of the coastal riviera region from Nice to Menton, there is no place to maintain rosa-sinensis in the gardens in France.
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The cultivars developed by Mr Collardot will be available next year. All the cultivars should be protected.
In France, another young hybridizer is Mr. Baggio, manager of Pouchon Horticulture in the Bordeaux region, another place with well-known wines. This nursery was severely devastated by the last storm in December 1999. Still in re-building, the year's culture has been reduced from 200,000 to 100,000 plants/year. The selecting process was very disturbed this year, but we can hope a revival and a new starting up with the new season.
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Former hybridizer and the first known in France is this author, known as J.F.G. In the 1970s until 1985, I added 25 cultivars to the market and, having sold my nursery, I came back to the hibiscus with my retirement in 1987. New seedlings are coming, and the first selection began this year. My selection process is based on the market necessities and the need to extend the color scale. We have to wait some years to see the new selections on the market.
No other hybridizers are known at this time, December 2000. j.f.giraud2002@free.fr
copyrighttext
and pictures J.F.G./ I.H.S. translation in French text at
HIBISCUS MISCELLANEA
IHS
GOVERNING BOARD
| President: | diveta@mail.pf Richard (Dick) Johnson B.P. 60,008 92718 Faaa, Tahiti French Polynesia Ph./Fax:(689) 410-854 | |
| Vice President: | bookman@intersurf.com Damon Veach 709 Bungalow Lane Baton Rouge, LA 70802 USA Ph. (225) 334-0384 | |
| Secretary/Treasurer: | zyan@mb.sympatico.ca Nadeen Pickard Box 723 Lac du Bonnet, Manitoba Canada R0E 1A0 Ph. (204) 345-9833 | |
| Membership Committee: | GlowhiteW@netscape.net Gloria White 10211 Fairway Heights Boulevard Miami, Florida 33157-1557 USA Ph. (305) 255-7964 | |
| Australian Representative: | alittle@hotkey.net.au Allan Little P.O. Box 170 Glasshouse Mountains 4518 Queensland, Australia Ph. (61) 07 54930309 | |
| European Representative: | hibiscus2002@voila.fr Jean-Francois Giraud Le PignetCHATTE 38160 SAINT-MARCELLIN France Ph. (33) 04 76 38 12 48 | |
| Pacific Representative: | robkele@ak.planet.gen.nz Bob Rivers-Smith 147 Golf Road Green Bay Waitakere City New Zealand Ph. (64) 09 817 5845 | |
| US Representative: | purplefrog@earthlink.netEd Bryan 11808 Rose Lane Riverview, Florida. 33569-6612 Ph.(813) 677-7624 |
Hibiscus International is published every two months as a cyber/hard copy publication. It appears on the IHS web site in cyber version or as an e-mail attachment, which can be read and printed out on your own equipment. Hardcover copies are available, but they have to be requested from the editor and a small charge is assessed to cover mailing costs. The IHS is a non-profit organization with the sole purpose of promoting the world’s most beautiful flower. The benefits can be found by joining our group and sharing daily updates and discussions. From the novice to the professional hybridizers, you will fine it all here. Check us out at:
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Send any freelance submittal directly to the editor:bookman@intersurf.com or to Damon Veach, P.O. Box 44370, Capitol Station, Baton Rouge, LA 70804. Opinions expressed in the articles are strictly those of the authors who have submitted the data for publication and for sharing with the society and the readers of its publication. If the issue is already full of copy, the items will be held for future issues. The earlier the submittal, the more likely the copy will be accepted for a given issue. Acceptance of material is at the discretion of the editor with final approval from the BOD.
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