A
beginning
(By Damon Veach)
I
hope you enjoyed our first issue of “Hibiscus International.” It was a lot of
hard work figuring out the right format and exactly what I wanted to use. Unless
someone submits information from another source giving me permission to use it,
all materials must be sent directly to me for editing. Some of the information
is taken directly from the IHS Internet web site for our society and never from
another group’s site.
“Hibiscus
International” looks different on the Internet, but the content is the same. This
interchanging of information and ideas by our membership (which is worldwide)
keeps me on my toes. But since we aren’t competing with other publications for
awards, it is my pleasure to just offer you good and useful information about
the world’s most beautiful flower.
You
will notice several new articles in this issue from new members. As our membership
grows, so does our amount of knowledge that we can share. And sharing this data
in a positive way is what we do best. The good part about it is that it is absolutely
free on the web site. You only have to pay if you want a hard copy, and this is
only to recoup some of the expenditures incurred in publishing it.
Our
publication is actually in three formats – the hard copy color version, the hard
copy black and white version, and the Internet version. When you check in with
us, you will find some of the best information available on hibiscus. We are not
copyrighted. We love to share. Quote us if you like. Just mention our website
and give us a small note of credit somewhere along the way.
We
have a very active group of hibiscus enthusiasts, and our Board of Directors represents
the finest men and women in the field of hibiscus cultivation. If you have questions,
ask. If you have ideas on how to improve this publication, suggest. If you want
to share with us, do it. For now, just enjoy.
Damon Veach, Editor
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HIBISCUS
En Passant – Change of seasons
(By
Damon Veach)
I say
that all year, but I always find my way back to Louisiana Nursery to see what
is new and inviting, and I usually find room for another one. I even order some
each year, so maybe I have more that I haven’t counted lately. I have a friend
who is the manager at Louisiana Nursery, and he keeps me posted on new arrivals
and upcoming sales. In the last issue of “Hibiscus International,” I explained
how I came up with bargains. However, if you really want something badly enough,
you may have to pay for shipping to your location.
I realize
that shopping with major nurseries is the only way to get some of our newer hibiscus
beauties (unless you are into hybridizing your own), but it is still best if you
can actually visit a nursery and pick your choices right off the shelf. I do have
the advantage of that here, not only with Louisiana nursery but also with Dupont
Nursery in Plaquemine, across the Mississippi River about 20 miles or so. There
are also several members of the Baton Rouge Hibiscus Society who sell plants they
obtain from Florida. I’m not sure of the nurseries, but these are usually good
plants.
Care
of your hibiscus at this time of the year is important, and for some of you, this
time came two months ago or even longer. Many members of the IHS live in the colder
climates and have to maintain their beauties on the inside for the entire year.
Still others have decks or lawns that lend themselves to a few months of outdoor
living in pots.
Most of
my hibiscus are in pots, and I really don’t mind moving them around even though
some of them are quite large. I spent most of today moving the remaining plants
to the entrance to the greenhouse and the utility room. Some of my expensive (and
favorite) ones are already in the house, utility room, or in the greenhouse. By
having these last pots near the entrances, I can move them in easily when a freeze
is on the way.
It’s
been two or three years in Baton Rouge since we’ve really had a hard freeze. I’m
located in the downtown area, eight blocks from the Mississippi River, and with
the river and the massive amount of concrete and also the trees I’ve planted in
my yard, I don’t have to worry too much about frostbite. I have, however, seen
it drop to 10 degrees, and when that happens just about everything freezes to
the ground.
I mulch
all my plants with pine straw or the needles from the cypress trees. I’m the crazy
man who sweeps the street leading up to the State Capitol. When that first blast
of winter arrives, the cypress and pines lose a lot of their green and brown coverings.
Rather than buy this material, I just take my trashcans and proceed to rake and
pick up the droppings around the base of the trees. I don’t mow. I edge. And my
lawn is covered with a lush brown that gives way to the beauty of azaleas and
camellias when February and March arrive.
By
April the bulbs and rhizomes have all put on their greenery and are ready to bloom,
and it’s time to position my hibiscus in order to enjoy their beauty once again.
Sometimes this green remains all year, but I don’t trust my hibiscus to the whimsy
of a weatherman. They give me joy all year even in the house, and they get my
undivided attention when the seasonal changes occur. With the arrival of Thanksgiving
and Christmas, winter is close behind, and in Louisiana, this is usually a dreary
time. That’s when I really appreciate my collection of plants.
As
for now, I have to just sit back and wait for the time when my garden will come
alive again in tropical splendor. Even though the lush green shows no hint of
winter, the colors will soon begin to turn.
Until
then, I enjoy the hardier plants that provide me with color through their leaves
or blossoms. That’s the way it is in the land of magnolias and long hot summers.
We depend on camellias, sesanquas, roses, pansies, ornamental kale, azaleas, cast
iron plants, and so many more southern standards to get us through those dreary
and cold days.
Give
me summer anytime. I’m already looking forward to warmer weather, and winter hasn’t
even arrived yet. I find that I can cool off a lot easier than I can keep warm.
I just can’t stand it when the cold gets into “my bones.” Oh, well. I’ll wait.
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PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE
(By Richard Johnson)
Another
important IHS milestone has come to pass with the acceptance of the proposed bylaws,
which were approved by 83% of members choosing to vote on the issue. For me this
is a very important milestone, in that I feel I have accomplished what I set out
to do, i.e., establish an internet based, democratic, non-profit, civic organization
of international scope that is capable of determining its own future. In accordance
with the definition, the IHS is a Society now with all the mechanisms in place
to permit it to fulfill its destiny, whatever that might be.
Now
we can continue with the business of having fun and doing the good things that
should be of interest to the entire hibiscus community. For the present, that
includes completing the first revision of the Hibiscus Archives (a new appellation
better suited to the scope of this section) which now has the beginnings of archives
for: 1) Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis hybrids, 2) Hibiscus Species, and 3) Mystery Photos.
In the coming months and years, these will become extensive references, sources
of value to anyone interested in the subject. Also being considered for future
inclusion are archives on Hibiscus Syracuse hybrids and Hibiscus Cousins. All
of these archives will be permanent works in progress since they will periodically
be updated as materials are received.
Another
of the good things we are focusing on is our publication, "Hibiscus International,"
which likewise, is a group effort for all to participate in regardless of their
affiliations. The object is to generate interest in and inform people about the
many interesting aspects of the hibiscus world. Contributions of data should be
sent to the editor, Damon Veach (bookman@intersurf.com).
With
the support of our membership and the contributions of anyone interested, our
efforts should in the future make significant contributions, while at the same
time permitting us to better appreciate and enjoy hibiscus, which is what the
IHS is all about. In this respect, don't forget about the current Photo Contests.
Send your entries in to either me (diveta@mail.pf)
or Nadeen Pickard (zyan@mb.sympatico.ca),
who is going to aid in the above as Assistant Webmaster.
HIBISCUS AROUND THE WORLD
Growing Hibiscus in the Philippines
(By John Fontillas)
The
Philippines, being a tropical country, is an ideal place for growing hibiscus.
The upper half of the Philippines has a more pronounced rainy season, starting
about May and ending in October or sometimes November. The southern part of the
Philippines, especially the Mindanao area, has a more even rainfall throughout
the year. One would expect then that the hibiscus plant, commonly known in the
Philippines as "gumamela" would be growing abundantly in gardens. However, this
is usually not the case.
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A popular
hibiscus plant in the Philippines is the Hibiscus Rosa sinensis, its varieties
and hybrids. The most popular variety is the red one. It is found in cultivation
for ornamental purposes, but it is not grown spontaneously throughout the country.
It is also a popular plant for hedges, fences, and just a "filler" for an empty
space in the garden.
During
a recent trip to Bugaio City and further north to Vigan City, Ilocus Sur, I kept
my eyes open for gardens with plantings of hibiscus, and for those who may have
new varieties. It was the same throughout - just a hibiscus plant here or there
in the garden and almost all were varieties of the Rosa sinensis.
In
recent years, more and more Filipinos have been bringing in newer varieties of
hibiscus plants into the Philippines. However, most of these remain in the private
gardens of the more affluent, who are not really interested in propagating them,
and who would rather like to keep them as a "show piece" in their gardens. Should
a plant fall into the hands of plant sellers, or brought in by them, then it doesn't
take long before it readily becomes available to everyone. Also if one eventually
gets "tired" of a plant, then one finally consents to part with some cuttings,
either as a good gesture or for a price. I recently obtained a hibiscus plant
from a seller. She was able to convince the owner to sell her two cuttings. She
kept one and sold me the other. It won't take long before she could flood the
market with that plant.
In
1998, Reynold Pimentel of the Institute of Plant Breeding, University of the Philippines,
introduced ten new hibiscus hybrids, honoring the centennial celebration of Philippine
independence. The plants were named after heroines of the country. Pimentel had
previously brought in new varieties from Australia, so he had some good plants
to breed.
However
the plants were sold at such exorbitant prices that it was mostly the affluent
and commercial sellers who were able to afford them. The price of fifty U.S. dollars
for a hibiscus plant was just too much for the average plant enthusiast. After
a year, the price was reduced to half. Now, one can obtain a good size plant of
about two feet in plant stores for $8 to $10.
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While
the flowers are admired, many would rather use the amount of $10 for orchids.
There are many varieties from Thailand flooding the market. Orchids, in the Philippines,
are considered more "classy" and one would be able to have as many as ten orchid
plants for the price paid for a newer variety of a hibiscus plant.
Now,
Pimentel has again produced ten new hibiscus hybrids called the Millennium plants.
He has named them after Philippine women scientists, mostly from the University
of the Philippines. Instead of propagating them in the University, they have consigned
them to commercial breeders in Bacolod City in the Visayas. I would expect that
when they are made available to the public, the price would be as expensive as
the centennial varieties, and one would have to wait for a couple of years or
more before the average plant enthusiasts could afford them. I hope this will
not be the case this time. Pimentel has been in the forefront in encouraging people
to raise hibiscus. Hibiscus plants, especially newer cvs, have very few flowers
during the rainy season extending from June to October. This is a good time to
prune the hibiscus plants. After the rain, the plants start blooming profusely.
Hibiscus
plants are usually not fertilized by the average gardeners. In fact, the plants
are sometimes called "Alaga ng Diyos" or "God takes care of them." The Hibiscus
Rosa sinensis and its varieties are very forgiving plants. They bloom profusely
without fertilizer, and with very little care.
Since
Osmocote can be expensive here, we have improvised our "slow release" fertilizer.
We get a small plastic bottle, cut the bottom part out, and fill it with complete
fertilizer. We bury the bottle with the cap sticking above the ground, about two
feet to three feet away from the plant. Every six months, just remove the cap
and add more fertilizer to it.
The hibiscus
plant, especially the Rosa sinensis, is also cultivated for medicinal purposes.
The flowers of the red variety are beaten into a paste and applied as a poultice
to boils, swellings and mumps. An American friend who had a boil tried the remedy.
After two days, the boil had "ripened" and erupted, making it easy for her to
clean and remove the "head" of the boil.
The
roots, barks, leaves, and flowers in decoction are also used as an emollient.
A decoction of the roots of the white variety may be used for sore eyes.
Using
hibiscus flowers for decorations is not a common practice as they tend to wilt
easily as in a hotter climate. Placing them in the refrigerator during the day
keeps them fresh for night use. Another trick is to keep green plants in the house
and to decorate them daily with a few colorful hibiscus flowers.
Next
is to have cuttings available for them - "starter kits" - so as to encourage or
cultivate the interest. Third is to invite school children and their teachers
to see the plants, and to encourage them to plant more hibiscus in the schools
and in their yards. Hopefully, with the help of others, I may be able to achieve
this plan.
Although
hibiscus plants have been in the Philippines for ages, it has been recently that
a greater interest in growing them as a special garden plant has developed. It
is hoped that more continue to grow them so that the Philippines can truly be
called "Gumamela Country."
CAN
YOU EAT YOUR HIBISCUS
(By
Colleen Keena)
The
following references give information on the edible and/or medicinal properties
of hibiscus and hibiscus family plants.
PHYTOCHEMICALS OF HIBISCUS
type in hibiscus and
search e.g. The chemical composition of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is shown at
See also the Herbweb
reference for HIBISCUS SABDARIFFA
ETHNOBOTANICAL USES OF
HIBISCUS
Type in hibiscus and
hit the search button e.g. Type in Hibiscus rosa-sinensis and hit the search button
*= Chemical(s) effective for the ailment ** = Plant effective for the ailment
>NOTE: No medicinal use noted for Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is accompanied by an
asterisk. This is in contrast to other hibiscus species. This can be checked by
typing in hibiscus.
The PLANTS FOR A FUTURE
DATABASE gives useful information with references. The following site give information
on the uses of hibiscus including medicinal uses
Type in hibiscus and hit the search
button e.g. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
EDIBILITY
OF HIBISCUS. Many Malvaceae species are edible
See
also CropINDEX
HIBISCUS ROSA-SINENSIS: The AGRICOLA
DATABASE shows that between 1970 and 1996 there were 86 references on the leaves
of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis being used as a vegetable. See also
and
OTHER HIBISCUS FAMILY PLANTS
King's American Dispensatory: ALTHAEA
MALLOWS.
Mallows have been valued from at least Roman times onwards.
Mallows are still valued
- for current information see
SUNSET HIBISCUS.
Abelmoschus manihot has a very high level of leaf protein, from a Low of
22,000 (ppm) to a High of 190,000 (ppm).
Malvaceae are more than just beautiful flowering plants! Many are tasty and nutritious. I would sum up by saying that while most, if not all, hibiscus or hibiscus family are edible, some may not be palatable, such as species with furry leaves.
However, I would not
eat any species unless I was absolutely sure the species was safe as there are
reports of kidney damage from one Australian species and another species has been
reported to have been used for abortions.
(By Gloria White)
Suddenly, the skies began to clear and the sun shone through clouds. In the enchanted garden, many blooms bravely opened themselves and faced the morning sun. The mysterious Flower Genie walked in the garden to survey the damage and came across a bud from a gem that had not bloomed before. This gem had many buds and would slowly make the genie smile with joy.
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Answer
from Richard Johnson: Pruning can of course be beneficial if is done properly.
When:
pruning is usually done when the plant is growing actively.
How
Often: when very young to shape the plant, later when it starts growing out of
bounds, and when those in pots start to decline.
How:
the cut should be made just above a leaf at a diagonal angle. The new growth will
usually come from the growing point just under the leaf, and perhaps the leaves
below, so you can select more or less where you want the new growth to come from.
I find
that when a small bush is growing, it is best to either pinch out the growing
end or trim back a couple of inches of the one or two branches that are the usual
growth.
On the
few plants I've had the courage to do this to, I do it until I get 6 or 8 main
branches, and this makes a very nice bush, assuming the cv is the type which has
suitable shape in the first place.
Older
bushes that have started to decline which are already in maximum sized pots benefit
from pruning, especially when being repotted at which time it is usually better
to remove perhaps a quarter of the roots as well. This sort of rejuvenates the
whole bush.
Pruning
will stop any more flowering on the branches trimmed for several weeks and resumes
only when the new growth matures. However, as flowers are produced at the ends
of branches, and as there are usually two or three branches which grow in the
place of the one pruned, flower production as well as improved bush shape is evident,
making the wait more than worth the effort.
Anna,
the petals at the end of the staminal column are called petaloids (correct me
if I'm wrong) and certain cvs are known for this such as Amanda Dubin, Rosalind,
Madame Pele and many others. They can take different forms and considerably change
the appearance of the bloom. Some I like (always on Madame Pele - its part of
her charm), usually on Amanda Dubin, but only sometimes on Rosalind - occasionally
I remove them when they imbalance the look of the flowers. Of course I'm talking
about the flowers I bring into the house for decorations as I don't go out into
the garden and manicure every flower to suit my taste - well, sometimes, maybe.
(By Nadeen Pickard)
On October 30th, a friend sent some cuttings for me to experiment with, 12 different cv's in all. Each different cv had several cuttings, except for Byron Metts which had only one. Here are the results so far.
Jamaican Red - rooted very easily and quickly. This is a species (variety) which has a very pretty red stalk with red leaves that are edible. I've been told it has a slightly bitter taste and are also used to make hibiscus tea.
Red Snapper, Lookithat and Tamibon - responding well and quickly put forth new leaves. Red Snapper seemed quite anxious to get under way and was the first of the hybrids to make new leaves.
Prima Ballerina, Candy Manners, High Voltage, Nago 20 and Wheel of Fortune - responding slowly but starting to develop new leaves.
Jami Lu and Black Eye - very reluctant to root. May still get results but the outlook isn't positive. One cutting from each variety proved a complete dud and was removed from the tray.
Byron Metts - succumbed to mold (ick) in spite of early treatments.
The cuttings were placed in a seed tray containing equal parts Canadian peat moss, pearlite and vermiculite. A high plastic dome was used and the tray set on a waterbed heater set at 75F. The dome provides very high humidity and is placed a bit ajar for air circulation.
At present I have not transferred any of the cuttings to separate pots so cannot confirm any success. Once they have been transferred I will again report on their condition.
I was reluctant to use water as a rooting medium as I was told a very long time ago that rooting cuttings in water developed a different type of root from that needed to survive well in soil.
Furthermore, cuttings rooted in water, then transferred to soil would have to develop the proper type of roots and while doing that may or may not be sustained properly by the water-grown roots.
I have never checked on this theory nor do I know of any literature supporting this, but I have always rooted my cuttings in soil since hearing that.
If anyone has
any further information to on this to share it would be great to hear from you.
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BOOK
REPORT:
Turning
Over A New Leaf
(by Damon Veach)
It's
called "Hibiscus" by Jacqueline Walker, with photographs by Gil Hanly. This one
came to me as a gift from Bob Rivers-Smith, so I wasn't asked by the publisher
to review it. I just think it is good and want you all to know of its existence.
It is truly a New Zealand gardener's guide to hibiscus, and the photography gives
it that added boost that should place it on any hibiscus lover's want list.
The
acknowledgements alone speak for the importance of this book. It's a who's who
of important people in the plant world but most importantly for the author and
photographer's special appreciation given to Chris Noble, President of the Australian
Hibiscus Society, and his wife, Patricia Noble, of Hibiscus World, Caboolture,
Queensland. I am not sure if any of the others mentioned in the acknowledgement
section are IHS members or just plant enthusiasts and collectors.
Walker
begins our journey into the world of hibiscus with a complete history and follows
this up with an excellent cultivation section. She gives us a look at the basic
requirements for healthy growth and the selection of hibiscus.
It
is an accepted fact that the sight of the beautiful blooms on hibiscus bring out
good impressions from viewers, but it is something else to be able to cultivate
them properly. Here again, Walker has approached this topic with sections on container
culture, cultivation in cool climates, use in garden design, and maintenance of
these plants. She also goes into complete discussion of pests, diseases, and solutions
to these problems.
Another
chapter is devoted to the propagation of hibiscus, and she closes out her work
with three appendices. The first one gives a list of hibiscus hybrids. The second
is a list of selected hybrids for particular purposes, and the third section is
a special list of fifteen facts about our favorite flower.
Another
thing that is most important about this book is the quality of the pictures. Gil
Hanly has done a masterful job at bringing out the true colors of his subjects.
This is very difficult to do, and many books do not show hibiscus in all their
natural beauty. Hanly provides viewers with a "reach out and touch" quality. It's
absolutely a top-notch job.
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Society