Queensland is known as the skin cancer capital of the world. The high UV ratings plays havoc with a number of cultivars during summer. Raspberry Swirl springs to mind and if you want to hybridize some shade is a great advantage.

  Allan Little uses palms to provide dappled shade but I am not keen on them after living with giant Cuban Palms when I lived in Bundaberg. The hibiscus I had there were gradually starved by a tight mass of roots that could only be cut with a crowbar. When these babies got a head start there was no way you could cut the roots with a shovel Pawpaws make a quick natural umbrella but trying to keep them at the right size is a challenge.

  Of course a stand of trees, a building or a shed can be used to protect the hibiscus from the western sun but is no protection from the midday sun. Elaine regularly has to have small skin cancers removed and I have num-erous spots where the skin has been damaged so I have decided to opt for shade cloth over the most exposed parts of the garden. Greg Lindsay says that thirty percent shadecloth is the best for the stock plants and fifty percent shadecloth seems to work well for seedlings in pots.

  Australia is the driest continent on earth so shadecloth combined with mulch should reduce my excess water bills. The water from the roof is collected in a rainwater tank and is used on the seedlings. I am hoping the shadecloth will increase the humidity and lead to an increased take rate when pollinating. Dedicated chrysanthemum and daylily growers protect their plants so why not hibiscus.

  A number of good growers claim that hibiscus grown in the partial shade are larger and more perfect but less in number. Another advantage is that the sprinkler system can be attached to the roof resulting in more even distribution of the water In south east Queensland we have definite seasons so unlike Richard in Tahiti we cannot hybriddize continuously. The main hybridizing season is autumn.

  Now a couple of thousand seeds will fit in a hothouse but where do you put them after they have been potted up. Some form of shadecloth is required for two thousand pots I have tried planting them straight into the garden but there is no way to protect them if you get a heat wave.

  A case can be made for shadecloth even if you aren't hybridizing These days with both husband and wife working there is little time for gardening and the modern trend is for outdoor entertaining areas with feature plants under some form of shade.

  Gardening shows that are all the rage now call this bringing the house out into the garden. Private courtyards can be difficult if no overhead shade is provided because the plants are in the shade early in the day and then suddenly exposed to the midday sun.

  Do you put off watering to avoid excess water bills? Eventually you are forced to give the hibiscus a deep watering and the next day down comes the rain. Well I am hoping the shadecloth will give me that extra day and I won't have to waste water. At least that is the theory I am working on.

Fred Westerman

  Concerning the specifics of my hybridizing, I have multiple goals and approaches. First, I'm a pollen duster in the sense that I hybridize most every available bloom. I take chances by playing the odds and hoping that random combination may bring together the best and eliminate the worst in some crosses. (Left photo: Tahiti Red (x) Morgan Alyssia Seedling - Richard Johnson © 2002).

  However, bear in mind that I have as a parent stock some 250 of essentially the latest and greatest varieties, so even random pollination would likely produce some impressive results. This I do mostly to produce seed to share with friends, support our society and promote hibiscus around the world. I also diverge from what is considered pollen dust-ing in that I do, where I have a specific goal in mind, quite carefully consider the qualities of the bloom and bush of the varieties I'm cros-sing. This is the aspect of hybridizing which is purposefully goal directed, but between both types of hybridizing I cover all bases. My goal basically boils down to producing new spectacular varieties for the sheer personal pleasure of seeing such treasures on a nearly daily basis. (Upper left photo: Misfire (x) Silver Memories Seedling aka "Tahitian Prince" - Richard Johnson © 2002. Upper right photo: Grand Hyatt (x) Silver Memories Seedling aka "Tahitian Princess"- Richard Johnson © 2002).

  Accordingly, I have no commercial interest and am happy to provide some of the most promising seed to others to grow and experience the same pleasure. I have no trade secrets, and enjoy sharing whatever I know or produce which makes the effort doubly rewarding. (Right photo: Volcano (x) The Path). In the pursuit of this goal I'm per-haps more liberal than most as per the following categories below:

  Bush: For me there is no one perfect bush. There are many house, patio and garden uses for bushes of different sizes, proportions and growth habits. Hence, the perfect bush to me corresponds to many special-ized uses. As a hanging basket plant, one which sprawls over the edge of a pot with downward facing blooms, will be superior to the classic, ideal, compact multi-branched with upward facing blooms. Although the typical growth pattern of hibiscus doesn't conform to this kind of use, I'm convinced the gene pool of H. Rosa-sinensis possesses the diversity to develop such a growth habit (Upper right photo: Mellie May Bush - Greg Lindsay © 2002).

  If, however, we keep emphasizing the concept of a single perfect bush, people will be discouraged from developing alternative uses. To me the present perfect bush configuration of compact, multi-branched, with smallish upward facing blooms corresponds to the mass market pot plant conception of a perfect bush. For the garden or large specimen pot plant, this bush might not be ideal and I can envision more than one attractive alternative.

For example, a 2 or 3 meter tall, twice as high as wide, fully-foliated bush or an open cane type with arching branch-es. Each can be very beautiful although one might be more suitable to a wider range of uses. (Upper left photo: Annie Wood Bush - Richard Johnson © 2002).

  To me the only aspect of "perfect" with regards to bush type, it that it must be attractive for the use to which it is put. On the other hand, there definitely does exist such a thing as a bad bush which is to be avoided and at very best only tolerated by collectors who value the quality of the bloom more than they detest the bush it grows on.

Exposition of the Bloom: Typically people tend to consider an upward facing bloom as preferable. I don't entirely agree with this in that this kind of floral exposition is only ideal for compact bushes being look down at. For a more substantial bush of say a 2 or 3 meter height, a lateral facing bloom is better seen. Even compact bushes if set on a table or seen from a distance will look better if the blooms are somewhat lateral rather than facing straight up. Accordingly, I find lateral blooms desirable and depending upon the size of the bush, either slightly upward or downward facing might be acceptable. For certain specialized uses, e.g., were viewed from below, even pendulous blooms may be useful.

Floriferousness: Although I can appreciate more blooms on most any given variety, I measure floriferousness more broadly in terms of what I call "flower power". For example, I would consider a single 12" bloom equal in flower power to three six inch blooms having about the same total surface area of floral color. Moreover I consider a twelve inch bloom that last three days, equivalent to a nine, six inch one-day blooms produced at three per day.

  Hence, for me three twelve inch blooms, which last three days, would have an equivalent flower power (my measure of floriferousness) of twenty seven six inch blooms produced at nine per day for three days. Although I tend to prefer the largest of blooms, feeling that quality alone sets such blooms apart from the ordinary; I can appreciate a beautiful flower of most any size. Concerning bloom duration, if a cultivar does not stay open until at least late in the evening, I consider it seriously flawed, for I find much of the pleasure of hibiscus is for use as a floral decoration.

Bloom Beauty: I also have developed a definition of what I consider the most beautiful hibiscus blooms. As I've mentioned, I consider the hibiscus bloom essentially a floral pallet upon which Mother Nature can display her unequaled artistry combining the elements of multiple colors, design and contrast, flower form, petal texture and substance each discussed below. As it is hard to present all these elements on doubles, I tend to prefer singles, but admittedly find a number of doubles very attractive all the same.

  Although I can understand that some may appreciate the simplicity of a single color, to me such blooms (with some exceptions) are rather ordinary, i.e., an unfinished palette. I like multiple colors either in concentric bands, as overlays or blends. Added to this, I look for design and contrast, i.e., interesting eyes zones, veins, spots and splashes.

  Ideally, I try to find these qualities on blooms that diverge from what I consider the simple ordinary single, i.e., that have ruffled and tufted petals which have maximum overlap, and in some cases were the visual texture of the petal itself can add to its beauty, i.e., crêpe appearance, raised veins, etc.

  Ideally, I try to find these qualities on blooms that diverge from what I consider the simple ordinary single, i.e., that have ruffled and tufted petals which have maximum overlap, and in some cases were the visual texture of the petal itself can add to its beauty, i.e., crêpe appearance, raised veins, etc. There should be a term to separate this kind of texture from the common one used to describe what to me substance is, meaning firmness or thickness of the petals which is also an important necessary requisite to most any decent bloom. These are the things that for me are at the cutting edge of new and different varieties that go beyond the ordinary. Such qualities can be combined in most any color to produce what I consider a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, I do tend to like the spectrum of mixtures between gray, blue, lavender, purple and red although I also like sunset tones. To me there is no such thing as the perfect bloom for the intrigue and fascination of hibiscus lies in its diversity. I have blends of colors in blooms I love that lack fancy form or contrast. I have fancy blooms with maximum pattern and contrast. I love them all as much for what they are as for the fact that they are so different from each other.

The Hybridizer: In reality, hybridizing is an exercise in filtering for specific or desired personal preferences. Above are my stated goals and interests and, accordingly, I will filter out those that don't fit. Given the same seedlings, not considering the reasoning that went into producing them, this filtering process could result in an entirely different set of results.

  If I were interested in mono colors, you would find among my discarded seedlings many that would qualify. If I were interested in compact bushy plants, the results of what I consider to be my best would be different. Hence, in a way, the filtering process in applying goals is even more important in determining the results obtained than the seedlings that are actually created.

  Lastly, I'm a firm believer that, although as a hybridizer we can nudge the odds a bit more in our favor by selecting the known characteristics passed on by certain varieties, the gene pool of H. rosa-sinensis is so diverse that chance alone can and has brought us some of the most spectacular varieties to date.

  Fortunately, it happens often enough that we find in a seedling something of what was envisioned when the cross was made to make the selection of parents viable.

  However, if one were to permit an automated machine to cross blooms randomly and grow massive amounts, there would no doubt be spectac-ular results. Hence, in the end - numbers count. The more crosses that are made and the more seedlings that are grown, the more spectacular the results will be.

  I hybridize purely for my own personal pleasure and in this respect I feel abundantly rewarded. I feel almost blessed that with the parent stock I've been able to collect, a quantity of Q-tips for pollinating, my digital camera and computer to record the results, pots, soil, space and time, I have a passion which provides me great personal reward even if no one ever saw a bloom I produced.

  Small platform placed high in the garden offering a supply of suitable nesting materials is another way of attracting birds to your garden.

(Left photo: A nest built of twigs in a native Australian hibiscus)

Plants for Food

Make sure there's something in flower every month of the year in your garden. The flower colour is also important, with red and yellow flowers being attractive to birds (W1). Planting suggestions for Australia are given in the Web references.

  Not all birds have the same food requirements. Birds depend on trees and shrubs for food in four ways. They may feed on nectar in flowers, or eat seeds and soft fruits. Many birds are insectivorous, seeking insects in flowers, branches and leaves, and in the airspace between plants.

  Because lorikeets, parrots and honeyeaters are distinctive Australian birds which can readily be seen feeding on nectar-bearing flowers, many people assume that nectar-bearing flowers are the most important factor in bringing birds to a garden. (Right photo: A Rainbow lorikeet)

  This is not necessarily so. Insect-attracting plants encourage a wider range of birds, including the tiny wrens, scrub wrens, fantails and thornbills that live at the human level of the garden. While Honeyeaters are specialist nectar feeders, they do not live only on nectar. Many of them are predominantly insect eaters, eating copious amounts of insects. All of them feed their nestlings on insects to give them a high protein low fat diet for fast growth and feather production (W5).

Water for Birds

  Birds are attracted by water to drink and to bathe in. It has been found that water features are as important in attracting birds as local species of plants (W4). If possible water depths varying from 3 to 8 cm should be used. Bird baths must be in a raised position above ground level, out of reach of predators and preferably under a shaded branch or perch where birds can enter safely and escape into the foliage if frightened. If containers are in direct sunshine, shallow water can become quite hot during warm weather (P1). Bird baths need regular refilling and cleaning. As well as making clean water available to birds, this is necessary to prevent mosquitoes from breeding.

Household pets

  Cats will frighten native birds from your garden. When a garden has been designed to attract birds, it is important to keep cats indoors at all times other than when the cat is being taken for a walk on a leash (W1). An alternative to teaching your cat to walk on a leash is to create an enclosed play area outside allowing room for your cat to exercise, whilst protecting native birds in the rest of your garden (W4).

Be patient

  It may take a little time for your plants to become established and for birds to begin feeding from your garden (W1).

3. HIBISCUS AND HIBISCUS-LIKE PLANTS ARE BIRD-FRIENDLY PLANTS

  The photos show how once birds do take up residence in the garden, they are attracted to hibiscus and hibiscus-like plants as nesting sites. This is possibly because of the large leaves and dense foliage on most hibiscus family plants. The three nests built in the last nesting season would not even have been visible were it not for a heavy frost that partially defoliated the hibiscus plants. The nests could only be seen after leaves had thinned.

  Although the one-acre garden has a wealth of local area plants such as wattles, bottlebrushes, gum trees, at the time of writing, no nests have been observed on these local species. The best chance of finding nests appears to be to check the hibiscus and hibiscus-family plants with large leaves and dense foliage.

4. SUMMARY

  The last article in this series noted that as well as helping to control insects of particular importance to those who grow hibiscus, such as the Hibiscus Beetle, frogs add another dimension into the garden with their colours, sounds and activities. The same applies to birds. They too help control insects of particular importance to those who grow hibiscus and they add an extra dimension into the garden with their colours, sounds and activities.

  While the following statement was made about frogs, it is just as true of birds:"by caring for them and learning about their needs we improve not only the quality and persistence of their existence, but the quality of ours as well".