By: Jim Purdie  (All photos used: Jim Purdie © 2003)
I would like to tell you about the way I stake my hibiscus plants when I plant them in the ground. I consider that it is necessary to definitely use a stake to tie the plants to as whenever I install a new plant in the ground, because if you do not tie them to a stake when you get strong winds, the plant will move in the ground. Because hibiscus have a lot of fine surface feeder roots these fine roots break up as the plant continues to move in the ground from the wind and, as a result, the plant does not get a lot of the essential nourishment and the plant will decline, unless you stop the movement by tying the plant firmly to a stake.

For this purpose, I use hardwood stakes 25mm square and 1500mm long and drive them into the ground alongside the root ball after I extract and plant the hibiscus from the pot making sure you do not drive the stake through the root ball. I prefer to install the stake when I first plant the hibiscus as there are no roots yet to be broken but if you leave it until much later roots will have by then spread out into the soil and you will damage them as you drive the stake in.

I use old panty hose (photo at right) strips to tie the plants to the stake, as these will stretch as the plant trunk grows thicker, and I tie it tight around the trunk, at a suitable height to suit the plant. I use the 1500mm high stakes, so I can tie the bush further up as the plant grows and it holds the plant firmer by tying it in several places, instead of just tying it in one place down near the bottom of the plant.

It is not advisable to use plastic covered wire to tie the plants to the stakes because as the plant trunk gets thicker the wire will not stretch and it will cut into the bark and gradually ring bark the trunk. I did this when I first started growing hibiscus and promptly forgot about the ties. A few months later, I found that the wire had cut right into the trunk so I quickly removed them and have been using the panty hose since and I have not had any more trouble.

I have heard that some people use the plastic ties that you can lock in a certain place and they leave them loose so they will not cut into the bark. But I think this is a waste of time as you need to have the plant held firmly to stop any movement in the ground. I have occasionally had a tie that came loose or was not tied tight enough and when we had winds or storms you could see them gradually moving more and more in the ground and the plant starts to look a bit sick because of the damage that has been done to the roots.

When I have firmly tied a plant to the stake the next thing to do is to tie a tag to the stake with the name of the plant and the date that you planted it. This is a good idea for remembering information. In a few years time you will be able to know exactly how long a plant has been on the ground in case you find it is not performing like it used to.

You can also see that it is perhaps time that you grafted a new one from it and dig the old one up or replace it with a new seedling.

I use old metal Venetian blinds as my tags (photo at left) and I cut them up into strips of about 3 or 4 inches and then punch a hole in one end to be able to tie them with some tie wire to the stake. To write the name and date on the tag I use a HB or a 2B pencil and unlike marker pens, which fade quickly, the pencil will stay there forever. Do not use 4B or 6B as the lead is too soft and will wash off.

Do not forget to tie the plant further up the stake as it gets taller to help hold it firmly in the ground. If you have a plant which wants to grow sideways instead of growing upright, I start staking it when it is a young plant especially when I see that it is going to grow prostrate on the ground and take up more of its share in the garden than it should.

With this in mind, I start tying the branches up to the stake but only do so gradually or you will break the soft branches. Every few days, I gradually tighten the ties to make the branches grow upright and after they are in this upright position they will harden to this shape and grow to be a upright plant instead of sprawling all over the ground and not taking up more room than it should.


It is also a good idea to check the stakes after a few years as the wood can rot off in the ground and let the plant move. If so, you will need to replace the stake when this happens. I save the shorter lengths if they are long enough and use them for plants that are not tall growers.

I hope this will be of some help for those members who cultivate their plants in the ground. You will find that staking your plants will help them in their growth and also help them from being blown over in strong winds which can happen if the plants are not tied to a stake firmly knocked into the ground.





he function of a hybridizer of hibiscus is particularly noble because it involves creativity and innovation. But the function of a selector is completely ungrateful because few respect the work carried out by the preceding function. For a long time, I've been astonished by a lack attention given to the many selections that circulate on the mail lists. I think that it would be useful that I employ objectives that retain a European selector's point-of-view in order to draw some attention of hybridizers towards a better directed research and more selective approach towards hybridizing.

Historically, for some two to three centuries, man has gathered, collected and transported hibiscus from many origins. Planted in gardens or green-houses, collectors of hibiscus started to distinguish differences they observed on growth patterns; the shape of the plant ; and, the characteristics of flowers. Gradually, these various observers began to develop classifications based largely on various dominating criteria and, at the same time, learned about the possibilities of propagation and hybridization. From a largely broad point-of-view we can observe that the first hybridizers, working locally with avail-able resources found in their particular environments, did not significantly improve the potentials of hibiscus. On the other hand, others with more adequate resources, privileged environments and a broader availability of varieties from different origins, in particular Hawaii, succeeded to advance the performances of hibiscus in a number of areas.

For clarity of discussion we will speak only about hibiscus rosa-sinensis.

In the course of time, various groups of amateurs and passionate collectors gathered and formed societies. Through this avenue came about the meeting and exchange of many ideas that allowed a further improvement of knowledge in this field. To make lively and animate these societies various persons in charge developed shows and quickly determined that these were necessary to reward those with extraordinary results. These were done according to geo-graphically situated establishments and according to local practices. Different awards were bestowed ranging from a diploma of merit; a certificate; silver and gold medals. Sometimes, such awards were accompanied by particular decorations, ribbons, art objects and so on.

ear after year, rules were laid down and specialized classifications created to accommodate a wide range of candidates. For example, we have observed a particular tendency in some criteria of selection to obtain increasingly large, increasingly colored and better designed blooms but without too much regard on specific characteristics of the plant itself.

In Europe from year 1960 onwards, hibiscus has started to make its appear-ance in many ranges of flowered plants despite the low number of available cultivars in some rare collections and difficulties attendant with international exchanges of plant material which do not support a broader establishment of cultivars. It thus became necessary to carry out hybridization within the region to try and widen the range and availability of new cultivars.The very rare experiments undertaken by horticulturists did not make it possible to carry out extraordinary jumps and advances. Most often, it was necessary to wait for results brought about through the Research Center of Wageningen in the Netherlands to begin seeing the appearance of a true evolution in the cultivars intended for the pot culture.

Having been in contact with these specialists, I thus followed their example and added my own contributions in the widening of these collections. The characteristic of the Dutch researches were particularly based on observation of plant performances resulting from their successive hybridization programs. Objectives being obligatorily based on rigorous, powerful and non-emotional economic results in order to obtain pot plants for commercial interest.

It is through such analysis of European-specific criteria that I invite you to consider the following:

   a. Observation No.1: The breeding of plants are done in greenhouses. This imposes an investment which easily goes from simple to more complicated financial arrangements depending largely on the geographical localities of producers. This investment implies some rigorous management on the surface and costs of exploitation.

   b. Observation No.2: To address the preceding requirements above, multiplication of plants must also take into careful consideration such performance elements as time and economy. The best way is propagation by cuttings for as long in-vitro propagation does not require a broad level of work.

   c. Observation No.3: According to trade flows and seasonal phases and settings markets, production must also undergo climatic risks such as changes and requirements to adapt. It is thus necessary to take into account this particular specificity which, in turn, is translated for the hibiscus plants that includes an essential factor of precocity at the time of its setting of flowers.

   d. Observation No.4: The selected hibiscus must find its place in an increasingly broad range of plants. This will be concretized by performances of plants themselves on the qualitative level. Finally, we will note that the European market is primarily a fast market of consumption and that 99% of plants will not be used in garden for obvious climatic reasons. The totality of these observations makes it possible to describe a great number of require-ments to which hibiscus cultivation in Europe must answer if it wants to find a place in such market.

We will now consider an approach of various criteria to determine a good cultivar in Europe:

1) It's propagation: As an imperative, this is achieved by cuttings of young growths because the desired rate of success should not to be lower than 90%. What will be eliminated ? Cultivars with difficult and delicate rooting including those having a time of rooting higher than 6 weeks. The propagation with ripened wood cannot be retained as a means because the waiting time frame of culture is too long in relation to economic objectives.

2) The breeding of cultivars: Since its settings are out in on pots cuttings will have to be established quickly and grow regularly with pinchings which are essential to have well-branched plants. The cultivar must at least develop 3 or 4 branches following the characteristics of its foliage. What will be eliminated ? Irregular cultivars in emission of new growths or those too slow to produce uniform growths.

3) During the course of culture: Particular observations will be carried out as to regularity of growth; the shape of the plant with general importance to vegetation; color of the plant's dress ; and, reactions to various plant health or growth regulator treatments. Moreover, the cultivar will be in competition with other cultivars of equivalent colors which imposes the problem of achieving a general homogeneity of various cultivars in competition. What will be eliminated ? Cultivars exhibiting fallen ports; too spread out; too rigid; dull foliage; malformed plants; and, irregular and badly structured dresses. Also, Some cultivars develop deteriorations or react to manures and treatments, as with the food deficiencies, various chloroses.

4) Setting of flowers: It is generally this first criterion that selections are based. The flower must have a beautiful form; round with petals overlapping regularly; well-directed towards the top; and, covering the foliage well. The distribution of floral buds is a not to be neglected criterion either. The drawing of the flower and stability of color is also of primary importance. Precocity is essential because it determines the possibilities of rotations of successive production. What will be eliminated ? Cultivars having blooms which fall of easily; hollow flowers; dull colors and tones; petals having irregular pigmentations; and, cultivars that take too long a time in culture to become florally ripe.

5) Market setting: With all the above, the final product is expressed in preparing departure of the cultivar to its markets. This stage requires that the plant have good stability; resists variations in temperature; and, satisfies all the requirements of packaging. The transport of plants plays a great part in the behavior of a cultivar. It must be able to resist a lack of light of approximately 72-hours and not be too sensitive to ethylene. This gas is naturally released from the plants and hibiscus often have a particular sensitivity to it. It is at this stage that stability of the floral buds will be tested. If the plant does not experience a brutal falling off of buds then we can estimate only the course of selection as satisfactory. This then is a tour of sorts as what makes possible the determination of the true qualities of a powerful product that is well-adapted to the European markets.

Conclusion: If you follow well the course of the various stages of selection, you will observe that at any time, the size of the flower was not evoked. It is in fact only one minor element of the process. It is at this level that we affirm the ways of European selections which are definitely more drastic than those traversed by other selection procedures in other continents.

he totality of all these cri-teria can apply on an inter-national scale as well. But if one considers that hibiscus is an ex-cellent pot plant, it is also a very beautiful pot plant in large containers as in gardens plants. With each one of its vegetative levels could be estab-lished qualitative classifications which would have some comparative value at the international level and would allow the professionals, as well as the amateurs, to be better informed on aptitudes of various cultivars (Upper right photo: Hibiscus Monoculture Nursery Operation in Sunny Cities, The Netherlands - J.F. Giraud © 2002).

We will also point out that a name as garden hibiscus (gv) would have its full and whole reason for existence whereas nowadays, it is an erroneous and not very clear definition. Finally, allow, the selector to dream of the days when we will exchange photographs of flowered plants and either only of flowers. In my next article we will consider more specific details.

Jean-Francois Giraud
June 2003





When I hybridize, I firstly look for cultivars that have good growth characteristics i.e. Rosalind, Ronda D (and others). I have discarded many cultivars with very nice blooms (like Touch of Class) which bloom rarely on poor growth bushes, although I realize that there is still a slight chance of a good result if crossed with a cultivar of better growth habit.

I next look for a prolific bloomer when selecting parents. New seedlings which do not bloom frequent-ly will soon fall by the wayside. With the above in mind, I now look for different colors, other than pinks and red which seem to be more common. This is why I have been trying to add some mauve, purple and brown blooms to my stock hybridizing plants. Multi-color blooms always stand out from the crown and I am always happy to see this in new seedling blooms. Color is not always easy to predict, however, as this can be influenced by the grandparents and great grand-parents as well as from the mother and father. A family tree of your hybridizing plants can be very useful (Upper left photo on previous page: Allan Little).

I personally look for doubles (although I still like a good single or miniature) and that is why I continue to use cultivars like Anna Elizabeth (Left photo: Barry Schlueter © 2001) and Rosalind which oblige more often than not.
On any competition bloom bench here in Australia, the singles usually outnumber the doubles by a large margin. In the next few years I would like to see this trend halted with many more doubles in the bench.

I also lean towards larger blooms rather than small as there seems to be more general acceptance by the general public. In my honest opinion, a miniature has to be really special to stand the test of time although I realize they may bloom more frequently than larger blooms.

Texture always plays a part in my selection of parents and commonsense tells me not to cross breed with two weak textured plants. I like blooms which do not recurve and strong textured plants help in this regard. I also find that strong textured plants generally last more than one day -- Evelyn Howard (Right inset photo: Richard Johnson © 2002), is an exception.

Having said the above, I still remember my first seedling bloom and I guess by today's standards, it was pretty ordinary, but for sentimental reasons, it took me a full two years to trash it.

    Just a few of my thoughts on the subject.




of men and women in several parts of the world who have found satisfaction in following in his footsteps. Dublin-born Telfair was a surgeon with the British squadron which took the Island from the French in 1810. He resigned from the military service and settled on Mauritius where he continued in his profession.

Telfair was a dedicated plantsman and in addition to his work with hibiscus, he collected plants on all of the Mascarene Islands and the East Coast of Africa and sent them to Kew Gardens in London. He is also credited with developing Botanic Gardens at Curepipe and Pampelmousses on Mauritius. Most of Telfair's hybrid hibiscus were described in contemporary English horticultural publications, together with colored drawings made by his wife, an accomplished floral artist.

Perhaps the most widely grown early hybrid in the world is said to have been originated in the Mascarene Islands, a cross between H. liliflorus and the single form of Linnaeus' rosa-sinensis. It is a pink single with a dark eye-zone and vertical striping on the reverse side of the petals. Often this stripe, which is white, shows in the eye-zone as well. It is known in California and Texas as Texas Star.

In Florida it is usually referred to as Versicolor (Photo, Right) and in Hawaii this 'hybrid' is variously called 'Puahi Bishop' or 'Cameroni'. While English nurserymen continued to offer new hybrid hibiscus of their own breeding during the middle and late nineteenth century, interest was limited because one had to have a green-house to grow hibiscus.

In fact, there was no significant improvement in the quality of the flower until 1902, when Walter M. Giffard, a Honolulu businessman and garden enthusiast made the first crosses with native Hawaiian white as one parent and one of the many imported cultivars as the other. The resulting hybrids showed great hybrid vigor, but most important the flowers remained open for two or three days. This was due to the fact that the heavy petal substance of the native whites is a dominant character and is transmitted to its progeny. During the next two decades, thousands of hybrids were proudly shown by hobbyists. Quite a large number of parent plants were available to them, and the range of color and form of their seedlings seemed endless. In 1911, Hawaiian hibiscus enthusiasts founded the Hibiscus Society of Hawaii. This organization put on an annual hibiscus show at the Honolulu Armory. In 1917 it is reported that 2500 different cultivars were shown !

Checking on parentage, Gast found 33 imported varieties were used for the breeding. Most of these were brought from the Orient, but an appreciable number were from Fiji during this period, but on two visits to these Islands, Gast was unable to find any old records.

After World War I, a new group took up the hobby. Most prominent at this time was J. A. Johnson and John Walker. Johnson's seedlings had wide distribution and are still grown in many parts of the world. He sent many to Florida and California in the later 1800's.

During the early decades of this century interest in hibiscus in India and Ceylon was shown by gardeners as well as authoritative agencies. In 1912, S. Percy-Lancaster, writing in the Royal Horticultural Society of India's 'Proceedings and Journal', presented a review of the work done with the flower and named 46 cultivars on the Society's list.

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